Today we broke our cardinal rule for BBQ tours:  we visited a BBQ chain.  While we normally restrict our BBQ adventures to Mom ‘n’ Pop places, we thought it only fair to include one chain restaurant in this year’s tour, just to see how it would stack up against the rest of the contenders.  So, we struck out for Florence where we settled in for some ‘cue at Famous Dave’s BBQ.

Inside, Famous Dave’s is indistinguishable from any other chain restaurant with names like O’Fridlebees.  Or something like that.  You know…knick-knacks on the wall, spunky servers in uniforms, manufactured kitsch everywhere.  Still, we weren’t there to marvel at the decor so we quickly made our selections from the menu and waited for the ‘cue to arrive.  Service was relatively expedient — drinks were promptly refilled and the food arrived quickly and efficiently.  I ordered up a half slab of baby back ribs and some brisket, which came with cornbread, corn on the cob, and two sides.  I went with the mac-n-cheese and baked beans for my sides.

The brisket was an interesting case.  It was tender, but the flavor and texture was just…off.  A little rubbery, and tasting a little bit of liquid smoke.  I was never able to put my finger on it, but there was just something about the brisket that wasn’t right.  The fact that they were sliced into perfect little rectangles exactly the same size and width was a bit disconcerting and in no way helped my overall impression of it.  But, the ribs were actually pretty good.  They came sauced, but only with a light coating.   I enjoyed that the ribs had a little fight to them, having to gnaw a little bit to separate meat from bone.   Definitely a step above the ribs you usually find at the megachains and a pleasant surprise.  Famous Dave’s offered six sauces to choose from, all of which were entirely too sweet for my tastes, but none of which were truly horrific like the sauce we ran into at Hooligan’s.  The sides were all average, although the cornbread was better than most.  Just a hint of sweet, unlike the cake that passes for cornbread all too often these days.

So, after all that, how does Famous Dave’s stack up against its smaller competition?  Surprisingly well!  You’ll never walk out of a Famous Dave’s thinking to yourself, “Man, that was GOOD BBQ!”  But if you need a quick BBQ fix and there’s a Famous Dave’s nearby you could certainly do much worse.

BBQ Revue is a perennial favorite, so we figured it would be a good idea to stop by for a benchmark as the 2009 tour winds down.  Located in an old Frisch’s on Madison Rd. next to Madison Bowl, BBQ Revue has been churning out high-quality barbecue for many years.  From the smoker around back to the large pig in front of the entrance, the place screams BBQ.   The aroma of smoked meat that greets you upon opening the door is enough to knock the most die-hard vegetarian off the wagon.

With the mood set, it was time for some serious BBQ eating.  First off, BBQ Revue serves up the best back ribs in Cincinnati.  Good ribs can be had elsewhere, but all pale in comparison.  The ribs at BBQ Revue are full of smoky flavor and just the right kind of chewy, but it’s the rub that really sets them apart.   The rub has a little black pepper kick to it that accents the other flavors that permeate deep into the meat, making for an almost otherworldly wallop of flavor that hits you with every bite.  The accompanying sauce is vinegar based and thin, perfectly complementing the complex flavor of the ribs.  BBQ Revue also is a standout in the mac-n-cheese department.  Unlike most mac-n-cheese you find at other BBQ joints, at BBQ Revue the macaroni hasn’t had all its texture baked or boiled out of it, and the oh-so-creamy cheese blend maintains interest beyond the first few bites.  The chicken is excellent, but the pulled pork and brisket are merely average.

With one day left on this year’s BBQ Tour it seems likely BBQ Revue will be maintaining its stranglehold on “best Cincinnati ribs” for another year.

Since Hooligan’s Pub advertises having the “Best Ribs in Town,”  “Winner of the Great Ohio Rib Cook Off,” we decided we had to stop by and see if the braggadocio was warranted.  Hooligan’s Pub is located in a former Howard Johnson’s near the corner of Ridge and Highland in Pleasant Ridge.  It features a spacious restaurant and bar area, along with nice outdoor seating next to some beach volleyball courts.

As there was nothing else BBQ-related on the menu, we all ordered up half slabs of ribs, bantered with the friendly wait-staff and eagerly awaited our ribs.  The ribs appeared after a short wait and we all dug in.  The first thing you notice about the ribs is the sauce, which is thick and sweet.  (Think Montgomery Inn.)  Sadly, the sauce was cloyingly sweet and nothing could remove the flavor from our mouths.  That’s a shame because the ribs were decent.  The ribs were clearly baked instead of smoked and were fall-off-the-bone tender.  The lack of smoke meant the rib meat didn’t have much flavor other than that provided by the slightly sickening sauce they were slathered in.  The texture was good, but just couldn’t compensate for the other shortcomings.  All-in-all, decent “bar food” ribs, but nothing to warrant a second visit.

We’re not sure what “The Great Ohio Rib Cook Off” is or was, but we imagine it might have been two guys in their backyard.  For my money, Hooligan’s doesn’t even have the best ribs in the neighborhood.  That said, we were impressed with the friendly service and overall atmosphere.  Hooligan’s Pub seems like a fun place to watch the game, have a few brews, and enjoy some bar food.  Just don’t expect much from the ribs.

The tour resumed today at KT’s BBQ and Deli located in Reading near the intersection of Reading and Galbraith.  The first thing you notice about the place is the busty mannequin, “Barbe Q,” greeting visitors by the front door.  Barbe Q, you’ll remember, has caused quite a stir recently.  The store itself has a small area inside which is decorated with headshots from famous folks who have dropped by, along with a counter for placing orders but no room for indoor dining.  There is a picnic table and two smaller tables outside the restaurant, but most of the business is clearly carry-out.

KT’s had just reopened today after a three week hiatus for vacation and as such had only a limited menu to choose from.  Pulled pork, chicken, or brisket sandwiches with green beans or cole slaw were the only menu items available, although mac-n-cheese was “in the oven.”  We’ll have to return another time to try the full menu, but we walked out with two pork sandwiches, a brisket sandwich, and two orders of slaw.

My brisket sandwich was very good, especially with the thin, vinegary BBQ sauce provided separately in a small plastic tub.  It’s hard to really give the lowdown on KT’s given the lack of food available, but I can say without hesitation the sandwiches were excellent.  Service from two ladies at the counter was friendly and efficient, although the frequent intrusions by the owner to bark out reasons for the limited menu (no one was asking) suggest perhaps he could use another three weeks of vacation.